Friday, August 24, 2012

Republic, WA to Colville, WA


Today was pretty tough.  I awoke freezing at about 4am.  It turned autumn all of a sudden.  I crawled out and put on all my clothes, but still couldn't get warm.  Finally around 5am I got up, walked around, and hung out in the park bathroom because it was warm.  Later I went into the laundry room because it seemed like it might be questionable to stand in the bathroom for no reason all morning.  Finally the sun came up and I was warm enough to head out.  Keith and Shannon, my hosts at the Winchester RV park, gave me a fleece and some big socks for my trip.

The pass is the highest year-round maintained pass in Washington at 5575 feet.  I started climbing and felt OK for awhile, but just got hot and clammy as the ride went on.  My shell was dripping on the inside and I got nauseous.  It was very cold at the top and I put on all the clothes that I could.

Got into Colville, checked into a motel because it's next to the fairgrounds and I wanted to go to the fair.  I walked over and browsed through the exhibits, which included an unbelievable number of cute animals.  Most of the animals were handled by the kids who came from all over the area.  There were horses, cattle, donkeys, goats, rabbits, chickens, geese, turkeys, ducks, guinea pigs, iguanas, tropical fish, pigs, cats, and dogs.  In the dog show area, an 8-yr-old boy with an official badge asked me very professionally if I was enjoying the fair and if I had any questions.  I asked him if he had any animals in the fair.  He said he had a dog, a rabbit, and a pig.  He wanted to show me his dog, which was obviously his favorite.  We sat and pet his dog for awhile until I felt a little awkward and left to get some candy.  Sorry kid.

There were lots of older kids there too, dressed up for Friday night.  Hats were at just the right angle, jeans were squeezed into, text messages were flowing.  I left after it got dark and returned to my digs to plot tomorrow's leg.



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The start of Sherman Pass


 Coming down, down, down to the Columbia River


Tried out the weigh station, but couldn't get anything to happen


Pedaled with coffee for about 3 miles.  Thanks, Jackie!


This awesome crane was moving stacks of trees around.


This one eats well.




What's it's name?  "Butterfly!"



Hi, my name is  Jane  Samantha.



Thursday, August 23, 2012

Tonasket, WA to Republic, WA

You couldn't ask for a better day than today.  I continued on Hwy 20 east from Tonasket, up out of the barren valley into the higher prairie/woodsy/hilly area.  Occasionally I saw cattle, horses, llamas, and goats.  I would really like a pet goat.

 Hwy 20 is wide and little traveled.  Most of the day was spent climbing, and my legs feel like they've been hit with shock paddles.  But other than that, no issues physically.  The bike is running well but there is an odd click in the pedal stroke that transfers to my feet.  It's the sort of thing that you get to think about for hours on end as you pedal.  I suppose I could take the cranks off and put them back on, but it hasn't come to that.

There are a lot of motorcycle tourists.  I like them because they are generally courteous drivers.  Perhaps they know what it feels like to be vulnerable.  Many wave or give me the thumbs up.  Yesterday a guy slowed down and shouted some words of encouragement, although I couldn't hear him over his Harley pipes.  I get a kick out of giving the Harley guys their special down-low arm wave.  You know, the one that only bikers use and looks cool and lackadaisical.  I do it and they return it and then I chuckle about it for awhile.  Here I am in my neon flashing contraption and yet I am accepted into the brotherhood of these folks who dress like Mad Max.

Oh, I also got to try my ultrasonic dog zapper for real.  This farm dog was making a run for me and I gave him a blast at about 20 feet.  He put on the brakes and ran the other way!  Fantastic.  I hope it works on meth-heads' pitbulls too.

A few days ago I ordered a spare tire for the front wheel.  Not only is it comforting to have a spare, but the lighter weight Kojak tire is noticeably faster than the heavy duty Marathon Plus which could be standard equipment on a John Deere tractor.  So I'll keep the Marathons as spares.  I need a Presta/Schrader adapter to properly check my tire pressure but haven't passed any bike shops recently.

To get the spare tire, I estimated where I would be in the future and had it shipped to the post office general delivery.  "There" happened to be Wauconda, WA, which is a ghost town in the middle of nowhere that still has a store/post office.  I pulled in on my bicycle in the afternoon hoping the package had arrived.  It had not, and the lady seemed mistrustful of my intentions.  I bought a root beer and sat down to wait for the UPS truck.  Fortuitously, the brown truck showed up 35 minutes later, and the UPS guy gave me my tire.  He had all sorts of questions and route advice.  He said I could avoid the upcoming grueling Sherman Pass climb by detouring 20 miles north to a lesser pass.  I smiled and thanked him, but going 20 miles north means coming back 20 miles south, and that's a good part of the day, so I'm going to gut it out.  A lot of people offer advice, good and bad.

Later in the afternoon, after a thrilling blast down the east side of Wauconda Pass, I pulled into Republic.  It seems like a quintessential small American town with a wide main street and some sporting-oriented shops.  I browsed the supermarket awhile, which was somehow soothing after staring at the road so long.  I bought some Q-tips.  I also bought some Deep Woods Off, which should keep me from getting West Nile.  I got a loaf of bread, some salami, and some cherries from Chelan. What I don't eat tonight gets stuffed in my bag for tomorrow.

After hanging around town for awhile, I pedaled over to the RV park at sunset.  It's really, really nice.  The owners asked me all sorts of questions and said they get bike tourists from all over the world.  They set me up in a well-manicured campsite with a power outlet and wifi.  I took a nice shower and quickly washed my clothes in the sink before anyone walked in.  One interesting thing is that there were no trees spaced close enough that I could hang my hammock.  So I managed to hang it from the limbs of one big tree.  It's five or six feet off the ground and I hope nothing breaks.


Edit -- just after I completed typing this, a flashlight shone on my hammock and there was a voice that said "Sheriff's Department! Identify yourself!" I said, "umm, hello?" Then I unzipped the bottom and looked out, and there was some fellow sitting under my hammock. Apparently the cops were looking for him and he took refuge directly underneath my ass. The whole RV park crowd came out to join the show.  One of the cops said "you don't know that guy?" I said no, I don't. The cop said "that's fuckin' weird, man."

To be fair, I think the owners were very upset about it.  And I don't think the gentleman knew that I was hanging over his head.


Let the sweating begin


Pastoral Eastern Washington


 Miles from anywhere, I received a bike tire from UPS


Blasting down into Republic


Downtown Republic


The only hammock solution.  A long drop if something goes wrong.  


Camp all fixed up.




Winthrop, WA to Tonasket, WA

"Did you make that bike?"
No.  It's made by a company in Kansas.

"How does it climb?"
Slowly.

"Is it comfortable?"
Yes, very.

"Don't you ever worry about anyone robbing you?"
No.

"Why are you doing this?"
No single reason.  It's relaxing, good exercise, and I get to see the American West.  It's a challenge.


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Another day, another pass.  Today was Loup Loup Pass, which started down in the barren valley but went up into the forest.  It was a long climb but not as tough as Washington Pass in North Cascades.  Enough to keep you honest, though.  It's a nice road with little traffic.  The descent was excellent, except for a sucker climb at the end.  The second half of the day was spent on a rather busy road from Omak to Tonasket.  The shoulder was very wide, which made it more pleasant.  It was hot (low 90s) but not terrible.  Staying well-hydrated is the key.  Pushing this bike up a hill requires some energy.

I mailed the GPS to Sascha (I hope that's OK, Mark).  I feel much freer now.  It's like switching to boxers.  Watching the speed and distance just reminds me of how slow I'm going, and my next turn is in Idaho.

Tomorrow there is a ghost town with a post office.  I am stopping there to receive a spare tire I ordered.


Coming down Loup Loup Pass












Tuesday, August 21, 2012

North Cascades NP to Winthrop, WA


The Cascades are behind me now.  Everywhere I looked on today's ride, there were serrated pinnacles and rock spires.  Climbing any of these mountains would be quite a challenge.  There were three passes to surmount.  Rainy Pass and Washington Pass were long grinds.  I was wishing for a bandanna to keep the sweat out of my eyes.  I felt OK, although the bike is no lightweight and takes some muscle to get going.  I drink this salty electrolyte mix and I think it helps.  I switched the back tire from the heavy Marathon Plus to the spare lightweight Kojak.  It noticeably makes the bike more sprightly.

Caked in salt and sunblock and chain grease, I got to the top of Washington Pass.  Sitting there were two young women with touring bikes (heyyy ladies).  They offered me cheese.  I passed eight or ten touring cyclists along the way today; it is a popular activity.

The scenery was spectacular but after awhile I just mashed on the pedals and stared at a fixed point ahead.  Steep climbs are not this bike's favorite, and it takes concentration to go in a straight line.  Eventually I mostly coasted down into Winthrop, which is a tourist joint.  I sprang for a motel since I need to wash and charge everything.  It is great.  I have the A/C cranked up and I am about to eat dinner #2.

Tomorrow I am going to head to Omak, and maybe a bit north of there.



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Everywhere

The face of grime

 The east side of the Cascades, drier and hotter

Winthrop fuzz
I

Marblemount to North Cascades National Park


Rode from Marblemount into the park to the Colonial Creek campground on the shore of Lake Diablo.  Rugged peaks are all around.  It was only 25 miles but it was pretty tough because there were a few hills involved.

Most people are tourists on this highway.  Drivers are courteous.  Hwy 20 has wide shoulders and not too much traffic.  Slow climbing is a balancing act on this bike.  

I stopped for some chow at a park convenience store.  They didn't have much.  I finally settled on some Campbell's Chunky chili.  It was adequate.  The can indicated that it was "Roadhouse" style.  That sounds very manly, and I am looking forward to getting more hair on my chest.  As Crocodile Dundee says, "You can live on it, but it tastes like shit."  But most things taste pretty good when you're hungry.  

Tomorrow I am going to go at least to Winthrop, and maybe beyond.


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Good livin'



 Dinner on the pier



Morning at Colonial Creek campground



Sunday, August 19, 2012

Bellingham, WA to Marblemount, WA

Just before sunset, I got into Marblemount.  It was a nice ride, although it was a little longer than I wanted due to a wrong turn and some extra hills.  No matter, it was a pretty day with a tailwind most of the time.  Drivers are polite and seem less redneck-y than other places.  I am staying at an RV park tent site for $5.00/night.  There are showers and wifi.  There is one power outlet for the whole campground, so I got the office lady to charge my phone.  The other electronics will probably die tomorrow.  Three other bike tourists are here also.  Two guys in their fifties from Minnesota who took the Amtrak out and are headed back, and one young guy who looks like Che Guevara and is headed to Mexico.  He seemed like perhaps he was finding himself.  A grocery store a ways back was selling their lunchtime sandwiches for $1 each.  I got a pulled pork and a battered cod.  Both were excellent, although I didn't get to eat them until a couple of hours later when I pulled into my campsite.

I am at the foot of North Cascades national park.  The jagged, glaciated mountains stick up almost vertically to the east.  Tomorrow I am probably going to go for a short ride.  It seems like a choice between a really long ride and a short one.  Since it seems like it will be a really pretty place, I will take my time.



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Picnic Point SP in Mukilteo



Putting the rig together



 Grand sendoff from Bellingham



 Outside Bellingham



 That would be interesting



 Getting close to N. Cascades


 May have to go to the store here and get some stuff

Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Vail, CO - Seattle, WA

I am currently over Idaho at 35000 feet in an Alaska 737-900.  Planes have wifi now.  Amazing.  I am trying to listen to the live ATC feed for our flight, but can't find the correct frequency.  Currently it is tuned to the Bozeman airport, which is talking about Cessnas.  I don't think that's right.  Maybe when I tune into Seattle Center I can figure it out.

Ugly black cloud below.  Looks like a massive wildfire.  Just double-checked on the NIFC website and there are several in Idaho.  The smoke haze is blowing SE towards Colorado.  Maybe why it's so hazy there.

Anyway, this looks like a really... long... ways to pedal.



Early and nervous



Mt Rainier & Crystal Mountain ski area from the plane window