windy day - August 2, 2010

This weekend, the ski resort was closed due to wind. It was a Nor'wester, hot damp wind blowing down from the Tasman Sea. It had been forecast for awhile so everyone was ready for it. Tables and chairs were lashed down, some of the chairs were taken off the ski lifts, and vehicles were parked as close to the building as possible.

I was really excited to see what all the fuss was all about, so I stayed up at the ski lodge with a couple of other people. After the wind came, we were pretty much barricaded up there. Boulders were tumbling down the hill onto the road, and the wind gusts would possibly blow one's car completely off. The winds gusted at about 120kph in the base area, and 200kph up top.

I was up for a couple of days, reading, listening to the wind shake the building, and watching some TV. It was fabulous.

I made a video, which I will post separately. If you have the time, check it out. It's 2 min long and 5mb in size.

scouring all the snow off the hill

sunrise after the storm

chairlift problem due to wind - something isn't right here

digging a road - July 24, 2010

Things have been fairly mundane around here. I've just been going to work every day, eating bland store-bought sandwiches, and running my propane heater. However, tonight at work I had an interesting experience.

We've had some snow the last few days so there is some digging to be done around the buildings and ski lifts to get everything exposed. I have been working in the base area the last two nights trying to make things look good. It's a lot of work because it's neglected by everyone else until I have to come in and do a huge makeover on it. Anyhow, I had opened up a pretty big project for myself when I got a radio call from ski patrol asking for some assistance.

I was a bit annoyed because I had too much work on my plate to be doing favors for everyone. I reluctantly abandoned what I was working on and went to help.

Ski patrol had been doing some avalanche blasting above the ski area access road. They brought down a pretty huge slide with their explosives, much bigger than they anticipated. It completely erased the road. A guy was there with a front-end loader but wasn't having much luck. So I drove down there with my cat and got involved.

The road is sketchy enough, but I was a full 25 feet above the road in my machine, trying to dig snow out of the side of the mountain. I tried to push it off the side, but tipping over the edge meant certain doom... it's probably a 1500 foot chasm to the forest below. I've dug out roads before, but certainly nothing like this. Luckily it was dark, and therefore less scary because you can't see the scope of things.

Finally the loader operator and I got a narrow lane dug through the snow. Driving down through it in our truck after work, the vertical walls are probably 20 feet high in spots. I took some pictures while he was finishing up, but nothing really came out. I recycled and doctored an old photo to illustrate.

west coast - July 5, 2010

I have a few days off from work so I decided to get out of town and see the sights. Yesterday I drove through the spine of the island over Arthur's Pass. It takes about four hours to get from one side of the island to the other. People drive like maniacs. The stereo in my car is archaic and has a cassette tape permanently jammed in it. It only picks up a couple of stations. Apparently, the only thing broadcast on Sunday afternoons is horse racing. A rugby game came on later, so I listened to that.

I leafed through the Lonely Planet and decided to stop in this one-horse town (maybe that's a bit generous) called Punakaiki. It has a few places to stay and a tavern.

After a night's sleep in a hostel on the beach, I set out for a hike in the surrounding national park. It's really rugged, with a few trails hacked out of an otherwise impenetrable wilderness. I first stopped at the tourist information office for some intel. The woman gave me a worthless map and suggested a trail. She told me to make sure to leave my plans with someone in case something went wrong. I didn't know who to leave plans with. The only person I know is the seemingly stoned hostel proprietor.

I started walking and the trail went into a rainforest/jungle. It's a blue-sky day but it was very dark inside the forest. Droplets of water dripped from the canopy above in a steady rain. It was pretty cold, maybe 50 degrees. There were signs posted that said make sure to stay on the trail, or you might fall into a hole/chasm. Sure enough, as I walked along I saw deep abysses in the forest floor, hidden by dense ferns. I guess the ground is mostly karst/limestone and the water erodes passages underneath. It is pretty otherworldly and I thought perhaps I might see into a dragon.

I walked for miles, not seeing anyone, and finally emerged on a disused road. I walked down the road for a few miles back to town. I startled a deer which ran off. It was about the size of a Great Dane. I also saw a weird bird, I think it's called a weka. It's about the size of a grouse. It was walking around the ground and yanking tufts of grass and rocks out with its beak, maybe looking for worms/grubs. It didn't appear to be able/interested in flying. It seemed rather worthless.

The main attraction here is these "pancake rocks" which have been eroded by the ocean. In summer tour buses stop and everybody gets out for a few minutes and snaps a picture. I haven't seen them yet so I'm going to walk over there shortly. The ocean seems a bit ferocious today. It is very loud and rolls into the beach with some force. There is a pretty strong breeze which blows the mist off the whitecaps.

I believe I can safely scratch this place off the list. Tomorrow I think I'm going to go back up to Arthur's Pass and do some hiking around the mountains there.

1st days off - June 28, 2010

I had a couple of days off, finally. I spent them doing errands that I needed to do. I bought a bicycle. I first started at the junkyard, then the Salvation Army. There weren't any choices at either of those, so I went to a bike shop. The man didn't have any consignment bikes, but he did have a new one for about $200. So I bought it, with the hope that I can sell it again come springtime. I notice that everyone here has a helmet. I understand that it is required by law, and the police won't hesitate to ticket you for riding without one.

I think it is sturdy enough to ride in the Peak-to-Pub race at the end of the season. It starts at the top of the ski mountain and ends in town. So you have to race on skis from the top to bottom, then ride your bike down the scary access road, then run 10K back to town. I hope I am in good enough shape to do it by then.

Tonight I went over to the local community radio station to ask if I could have a shot at DJing. The guy who runs it happily turned over the keys. The station is located in a former public urinal, has no heat, and has one light bulb. It was burnt out so I had to go buy another one before I started. After I got that sorted out, I played some tunes and now am hired to do a weekly show. Being an American cultural ambassador, I played some Elvis. The sound board is from the sixties or seventies and was made in Michigan. It had a sticker on it from a music shop in Perth, Australia. Then it made it to Methven somehow.

Tomorrow night I will go back to work, which I really enjoy. I have learned my way around the mountain decently well, and have impressed my co-workers with my attention to detail. Vail is pretty particular about the grooming, although they generally have better snow to work with. Last night it rained and then froze, and I heard it was pretty miserable.

So far I haven't destroyed anything, which has also made my bosses happy. It's pretty easy to bash into things in a snowcat, especially when there's a blizzard. I am impressed by how sketchy everything is at this mountain. Many of the catwalks are narrow and have sheer drops on one side to certain doom. Even in the ski area parking lot, there is an unmarked drop over a cliff on one side. If you back too far out of your parking space, you will plummet over rocks until you land in a creek. A guy drove one wheel off the road a few days ago and had to be towed out backwards with a tractor. I'm sure he had to change his underwear when he got home. We of course heard about the whole affair over the 2-way radios, to everyone's amusement. We also had two avalanches the other day. One was intentionally triggered by a patrol explosive, and it ran over the beginner part of the ski area. The other was a natural slide, and it ran across the scary road.

I will be happy to have some Mexican food when I get home. It's not that NZ food is bad, it's just pretty bland. They like potatoes and eggs and cheese, just sort of staple stuff prepared with a hint of Englishness. It's all very fresh. The apples are extremely tasty, as are mandarin oranges. I usually take PB&J to work. I bought a jar of cheap peanut butter and noticed when I got home that it was made in China. Maybe it's snobby, but I am uneasy about Chinese mass-produced peanut butter, so I bought some from Australia the next time I went to the store.

Sorry no pants-on-fire stories this time. I will try to get into some trouble soon.

Ski area avalanche dog

Large neighborhood cat in our tree

My boss, Fish, with his son (who naturally loves snowcats). Everyone here has nicknames, such as Batman and Wobbly. Maybe I can earn one too.

1st night

I am sitting here in front of the offending heater that melted my pants. This morning I was pretty sad when it ran out of propane and I could still see my breath. So I got it refilled and am nice and toasty unless I have to walk away and go to the bathroom or something.

Tonight was my first night of work. I was pretty nervous, and I think my boss was also... everybody stood watching while I backed their bazillion-dollar pride-and-joy out of the shop.

About an hour into the shift, a pea-soup fog settled over the place. Objects like air/water hydrants, signs, lift towers, and sheer cliff edges would suddenly appear in front of me. Then it started to rain. Then it turned into a pretty heavy snow, which then turned into a howling blizzard. We groomed some stuff but it probably didn't matter a whole lot in the end. So we went down and had some coffee and waited for the late shift to show up.

The road is so bad getting here that it is always a possibility that the graveyard shift can't make it up the mountain. So we have to wait and see if they show up before we can leave. If they don't show up, we take a break for a few hours in the well-lived-in (possibly bedbug-infested -- that's "beedbug" in Kiwi) break room/crash pad, then return to work. Luckily they showed up, and we got to go home. Unfortunately, we had to drive down in the snow.

This road is like no other road I have ever seen. Really, no hyperbole, it is absoutely frightening. It's a graded dirt road that has been hacked into this steep mountainside. And it's long, too, maybe six miles of butt-clenching. The maritime environment means it is snow at the top, sleet and slush in the middle, and rain at the bottom. When it's clear it's even scarier because you can see the chasm below. There is, no joke, currently a pile of automotive wreckage about 400 feet below the road in a gully. A guy slid off two weeks ago and they were able to recover the body but not the car. Gawkers have been taking pictures of it.

We chained up the crew-cab pickup and headed down. Snow was blowing over the hood and the wind was shaking the truck. Everybody was laughing and having a great time. Anyhow we made it down and I got back home.

The ski area is the bowl on the top of the mountain on the right.

1st day of work - June 28, 2010

Yesterday we went over to the ski area office in town and had an orientation speech. Then they issued us uniforms. The uniforms are new and really nice. They are made in Canada and are very expensive, even in the US. I'm sure they cost even more here. They sternly told us to make sure nothing happened to them. They told us to report back in the morning.

This morning it was dark and windy and pouring sheets of rain. Great day ahead, I thought. So I fired up a couple of the miniature heaters we have scattered around the house. Turn one on for the bathroom, turn it off when you're done. Same with the bedroom. Turn it on until you're warm enough to get in bed, then turn it off. Anyhow, in the living room we have this wheeled propane tank with the burner on the front. I was all dressed and ready to go to work, but I had a few extra minutes before I had to go. So I walked over to this thing and held my hands out and stood there awhile, soaking up the heat. It was nice.

My legs got warm after a bit and I looked down and... MY PANTS WERE ON FIRE. The expensive fabric was now running down my leg in liquid form. (scroll down)

This was literally five minutes after I took the tags off.

I quickly changed into my own pants, which are also black. I will have to lie low about this until I can figure out what to do.

After that the day went pretty well. It became sunny and gorgeous and I skied a bit. I start grooming tomorrow evening, and I'm excited.

June 16, 2010

After a good night's sleep, my travel fatigue wore off. I went for a hike in the national park nearby (Tongariro Park, on the north island). It was fairly strenuous, probably because I have been sitting in a machine eating chips all winter. The trail went between two large volcanoes. One was new and was a perfect cone, covered in snow. The other was more craggy and broken. Both were pretty imposing. It was silent, and I saw no animals, not even a bird. The landscape was pretty bleak... only scrub brush growing on an endless lava flow. It took about 4 hours and I was bushed.

I'm staying at a hostel outside the park, filled with young internationals trying to find a job for the ski season. The mood is a little desperate, since most people aren't having any luck. They jealously asked me how I got my job. I told them that I've been working at a ski resort for eight years. Plus I got my job before I came over, instead of showing up broke on the doorstep.

New Zealand tied their World Cup match, which was cause for celebration. The radio DJs were going on about it, but it was a little hard for me to follow the conversation because I was too busy giggling at their funny vowels. Plus I was driving my car while listening to the radio, so I couldn't pay much attention. The driving is a little tricky. Several times I have accidentally pulled out into the right lane. Luckily there's not much traffic around here. I often jump into the car to go somewhere, sit down, and realize that there's no steering wheel. It's on the other side. The car is an older station wagon with a tiny engine. It gets good mileage, though, and has enough room for my stuff. It has a cassette player and folding power mirrors. I guess those mirrors are for getting into tight parking spaces. I wonder, if you park that closely, how do you get out of the car"

Tomorrow I'm going to drive down to the bottom of the island and take the ferry over. It's a three-hour ride and is about $100 with the car. But it's supposed to be spectacular. I have a few more days before I am supposed to show up at my house, so I think I'm going to go over to the west coast of the south island. There are several more national parks there and I'm going to locate a hostel and do some more hiking. Hopefully the weather isn't too bad. It's late fall here, and the leaves are yellow and red. Strange, strange.

Everything is clean and nice here. It's rural and bucolic where I am. The New Zealanders are very polite and modest and invariably ask "So, how do you find New Zealand?" Oddly, though, I haven't talked to many New Zealanders so far, as I'm busy listening to the Argentine argue with the Swiss about the World Cup. I did advise the Swiss about adjusting his brakes on his junky old van, which I felt good about. He's trying to get it road-certified and is having a lot of trouble. I had the mistaken impression that every Swiss was an engineer, for some reason.

Well, I'm sure I will have more stories soon.

Ray

Mt Ngauruhoe - aka "Mt Doom" from Lord of the Rings

bread and cheese ftw

summerwinter nz: Nutcracker

video of nutcracker rope top at Mt Olympus

summerwinter nz: Nutcracker

summerwinter nz: video

summerwinter nz: video: "July 31 - August 1 weekend at Mt. Hutt. Closed due to windstorm."

summerwinter nz: heli commute mt. hutt

summerwinter nz: heli commute mt. hutt

summerwinter nz: Driving around Methven

summerwinter nz: Driving around Methven