Today was characterized by a bit of the park's natural wonders, and a whole lot of climbing on the bicycle. I awoke somewhat disappointed, as I had imagined a soothing night's rest on an enticing piece of grass heated by geothermal energy. Instead, the rocky ground seemed more and more like concrete as the night wore on. Nearby campers caroused until late, and car doors slammed all night long. On the bright side, the stars here are very dense and bright. The Milky Way was infinite, and faint shooting stars flashed across the sky.
In the morning I broke camp to the patriotic sound of thundering RVs and headed up to the Mammoth Hot Springs terraces. There, heated water cuts through underground limestone and soaks up all the minerals. Then the water escapes from vents on the side of a mountain and pools out onto terraces of calcium. Multicolored heat-loving bacteria live in the pools, which are ever-changing due to Yellowstone's mysterious underground plumbing. A young park ranger gave an uninspired talk about the geology. It's been a long summer of long hours and low pay.
After purchasing sunscreen and mailing some postcards, I saddled up for the ride to Tower Falls. It was only 15 miles but the roads here are up and down, up and down. On the way there I came over a pass which was pretty stout, but didn't have a sign at the top. I figured that it was Dunraven Pass, which I had heard about. Sometimes mountain passes have a wicked reputation and really aren't that big of a deal. Sometimes it goes the other way.
I coasted down to Tower Falls, ate a plum and a sandwich, and walked out to have a brief look. I mingled with the tourists, which are of a wide variety. Various languages are spoken, people carry/drag kids, people bicker, people snap photos, kids have ice cream all over their faces. Some are in poor physical shape and can barely walk. Others are dressed like they are mountain explorers, hiking down the level boardwalk with walking poles and safari hats and big boots. Returning to my bike, I was stopped by several people who wanted to know about the bike and what I was up to. It's always like that.
It was another 15 or so miles to Canyon Junction, which was where I was going to camp. I thought it would be a reasonable ride, but I was mistaken. In fact, Dunraven Pass (elev 8878) lay ahead. The bottom of the pass is at 6270 feet. First I was thinking that this was a run-of-the-mill hump, then I conceded that it was a bear. At some point it was no longer a bear, but a sonovabitch. Then it was obscene, and finally sadistic. There were multiple false summits and zero shoulder. The wattage I must generate to push this bike is at least double compared to an unladen bike. All day, I estimate I climbed almost 4000 feet.
Blasting down into Canyon, which wasn't as fun as usual because I was so completely exhausted, I saw my first buffalo lumbering up the road. It was this enormous shaggy lump, and I had no idea what it was. I thought maybe it was a wooly mammoth, then a grizzly, then as I got closer I saw its gargantuan head. It was the size of several vending machines.
Down in Canyon, the campground said "closed for season". I was all set to camp there anyway, or in the trees, but I walked into the lodge and asked if they had any room. There was a cancellation and they had a cabin available. I took it. I need a decent night's sleep, and need to wash and recharge everything.
Tomorrow it is supposed to be cold and rainy I think. [Edit: Just checked the weather. Chance of SNOW tomorrow night. Yuck.] Going to make it down to the West Thumb geyser basin and stay at Grant Village. Then on to the Tetons.
[p.s. - this internet barely works. Some of these pictures may not load.]
Palette Terrace, Mammoth Hot Springs
A huge terrace at Mammoth Hot Springs
I didn't really want such a close-up, but you get what you get when you ask people to take a picture.
Conquered the beast
That is, indeed, a bison.
