Lake Lodge, Yellowstone NP - Flagg Ranch, WY

Every day has a story.  I awoke in one of the park's staff cabins before daybreak, and headed out. There was more of the park to see before heading south to Tetons.  On the way south, I walked through the West Thumb geyser basin, which is on the shore of Yellowstone Lake.  Deep pools and mudpots and mini fountains hiss and bubble next to the lake.  It was a gorgeous autumn-feeling day and the views across the lake were endless.  I think it was the most picturesque of the thermal features in Yellowstone.  The steam isn't even smelly.  Some of the deep blue pools looked very inviting for a soak, although that may not be the best idea.

After I left West Thumb, I spent a really long time trying to figure out some logistics.  Super-neighbor Mike shipped one of my good sleeping bags and a bivy sack to the KOA in Jackson.  He said he's slept in the bivy at 11,000 feet in a storm.  So I will regain my outdoor sleeping capabilities.  I'm still kicking myself for not packing warm enough, but three weeks ago it was a heat wave.  This morning people were scraping ice off their windshields.  

Leaving Yellowstone, I had mixed feelings.  The area has astounding natural beauty, and the idea that there is a vast magma chamber under your feet is mind-boggling.  I grinned ear-to-ear at the things I saw, heard, and smelled.  

The depressing part was that the park infrastructure was in poor shape.  Yellowstone is one of America's crown jewels which millions of people from all over the world visit every summer.  Yet the roads are in dire shape, the boardwalks are rickety, the bathrooms filthy, and the staff had an air of sad resignation.  The Xanterra company makes a killing renting rooms in the historic lodges that the CCC built, and sells Wonder Bread in the park grocery for $4/loaf.  It just seems that the place deserves better.  I guess there is no funding.  

The human impact on the park is significant. The constant stream of roaring cars and RVs, the crush of people jostling to get a good look at some feature, people throwing things in the pools and springs, human waste on the ground at roadside picnic areas… it can be disheartening.  Luckily the park is mostly closed in the winter and perhaps can recover from the human impact.  But to paraphrase my friend Austin's father, humanity isn't going to destroy the earth.  The earth has been here for billions of years and will be here for billions more.  Humanity might destroy itself, sure.  But what of it?  Humans have been here for a blink of an eye in planetary time.  The planet will eventually be fine after we've all gone away.  That's one way to look at it, anyhow.

Things got better later in the day after I'd resolved to enjoy myself in spite of my camping situation.  I reserved a cabin down the road at a place called Flagg Ranch, and saddled up to ride there.  It was a splendid ride along Heart Lake and Lewis Lake.  The low sun flashed through the trees as I sailed down, down, down.  I didn't realize there was such a descent.  In awhile I pulled into the ranch.  They directed me to my cabin.  For the amount of money I paid, I was sort of expecting it to have bedsheets, maybe a coffee maker, at least a heater.  It had none of these.  Just a cold log cabin with a bunk bed and vinyl mattresses.  Pretty disappointing.  But I remembered that I'm staying in the moment and enjoying it regardless, so I sighed and gathered my things to find the shower.  

Upon stopping into the camp host's office to ask directions, I got into a conversation with the gregarious fellow on duty.  As we were talking about the history of the ranch, he mentioned something about Vail Resorts.  My ears perked up.  I said that I work for VR.  He said "Oh, you didn't know?  Vail owns this place.  You're an employee?  Well what are you staying in that cabin for?  We'll have to upgrade you."  He clicked on his computer and put me into the "Deluxe" cabin which has not only a heater, but also has terry towels, coffee, Turkish sheets, everything.  Super swank!  I walked in and twirled around in the opulence.  This is good living!

Later that night at dinner I learned that everyone in the complex works at one of the VR properties in the wintertime.  Everybody treated me like I was some new cool guy who showed up to the party.  It was great.  I would stay here all day tomorrow but I must ride through Teton and Jackson.  It's not that far I don't think, maybe 40 miles.  There will be enough time to poke around.

No pictures this time because this place is way out in the middle of nowhere.  No cell, no radio, etc.  They have satellite internet but it's super slow and having problems.  I will have to post pics tomorrow.


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Deep pool at West Thumb geyser basin

Fumaroles on the shore

Steamy spa

Nice road out of the park

Lewis Lake

Upgraded accomodation

Lake Village, continued

Yesterday I hung around this lodge most of the afternoon waiting for a cancellation on a room.  I was pretty much marooned because of the winds and impending cold.  Something came up that was $200 and 15 miles back where I came from.  I didn't take it.  As it got dark, I chatted with some employees who turned out to have an extra room at their place, and invited me to stay.  I was very grateful to have a warm place to sleep, but I had to get up before dawn when everybody went to work.  So I pedaled back to this lodge.

Fog was hanging over the lake and the sun was peeking through.  The lakeshore is a couple of hundred yards down from the lodge, so I took a walk.  There was a lady from Utah standing outside the lodge.  As I walked by, she warned me that I should be very careful.  She was very worried that I would be gored by a sneaky buffalo.  I invited her to follow me down the lake, promising that I would die first while she ran.  She nervously accepted.  

The lodge is a beautiful building but a bit cloying.  It is mostly full of the tour bus set.  New-age music is playing on the PA and there is a gift shop selling useless crap at inflated prices.  I am hoping to get out of this park today since I am obviously having trouble finding somewhere to sleep, and am getting robbed every time I get something to eat at the park grocery.  All lodges and services in the park are run by a company called Xanterra, who has their green leafy earth-friendy brochures and advertisements everywhere.

I have to stay in Teton tonight since it is an unbroken national park almost all the way to Jackson 100 miles away.  The sleeping situation is bothersome and it is totally my fault, which is frustrating.  I have an awesome winter sleeping bag at home.  Maybe I will pick up a medium-duty one somewhere to replace my decades-old Snoopy bag (ok not really), in which the insulating fill has long since collapsed.

Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.  It's much, much huger than the picture indicates.  It's one of those spaces where the vastness compresses your vision from 3-D to 2-D as the depth and breadth is too much.

Balancing tourism with nature at the park.  The park is totally set up for automobiles, with no public transportation (and no bike lanes).  Xanterra runs a bus that goes around.

Ubiquitous warning sign by the thermal features.  This boy's sister is obviously laughing at him while he gets broiled.

Windy and grim by the lake in the afternoon.

The Lake Lodge, where I hung around in the lobby

Fog lifting over the lake at sunrise