gathers no moss: Arizona

My current whereabouts via satellite tracking can be found here:

https://share.delorme.com/RayDixon

Days 9-10, Wed-Thurs April 27-28

My read end was pretty sore so I recuperate in Superior, AZ for a day. It's in a lovely setting but the town itself is a little run-down. Superior is tied to the fortunes of nearby copper mines. Notably, the Magma mine is next to town and was the main producer for most of the town's history. However, it closed some years ago leaving behind a decrepit smelter and lots of waste rock. Now a conglomerate wants to start a new large mine just outside of town. The ore body is very deep. So they plan to tunnel under the ore body to a depth of 7000 feet and mine it from underneath. As the ore is removed, the surface will subside. Eventually, there will be a huge crater on the surface. Currently located in that area is a nice campground and climbing and mountain biking. So those users are mostly against the project. Also the Apaches (very recently) claim it as a religious area. The project will probably happen anyway.

I walked around town and ran into Slav and Yana, the Bulgarians. They told me tales of camping for free and eating well. They seem to be pros at this, much more than I.

Had a Stromboli sandwich for dinner at a local pizza place. The server was a muscular fellow with extensive facial tattoos. He even had a paragraph written in cursive on his shaved skull. As he bent down to write on the ticket, I tried to see what was written on his head, but I couldn't read it. I wanted to ask but I was hesitant. He was really effusive and friendly and probably would have told me. He was about the friendliest guy in town.

The next day, Amy Smith picked me up and took me to Phoenix. We picked her 9-year-old daughter up from school which was pretty fun. A lot of people there about my age... being parents. The three of us went to Target where I bought a handheld camera that should work better than my cell phone. We also went to a bike shop where I got a new saddle that is more comfortable. It's still not exactly a Cadillac but it is better.

We drove around the suburbs a bit and I marveled at the big houses and endless retail stores and huge shiny cars.

"Apache Leap", where the Apaches allegedly jumped off the cliff rather than get shot by Arizona soldiers. Soon to be turned into an enormous crater.

Some Mexican goods at the market

Friday April 29 - Day 10 -- Globe to Roosevelt Lake

Amy dropped me off in Globe, where I went to the post office to pick up some new brake pads and a sleeping bag liner I ordered. Then I had to ride to the other end of town to await the UPS driver, who had the jacket that I ordered, because UPS doesn't play nice with the post office. Which resulted in me sitting around in the sun waiting for the driver to return. But I got my jacket and was very happy about that.

The next morning, I cruised around on the sleepy main street until the library opened. There I unsuccessfully tried to update my Garmin. Also had to go to Wal Mart for a couple of items so I left my bike under the watchful care of the garden department. Perhaps this is the most trustworthy place in a Wal Mart? Feels OK, anyhow.

Headed out of Globe on a wide highway that eventually went up a long grade over a small mountain range. A tough climb but not excruciating. On the way downhill, the skies were dark and a cold wind blew. Putting on my new jacket, I was comfortable. At the bottom of the hill I passed another stopped touring bicyclist who had a long climb ahead of him. Even though I had just completed the climb, I felt a little sorry for him.

Stopped into a remote roadside market to get a few snacks since I didn't know quite what was coming. The ladies there were very nice and called ahead to see if I needed to pay to camp since I was on a bike. Turns out that at this AZ state park, bicyclists get free camping and free hot showers. Funny how you can pay a lot for something mediocre, yet sometimes pay nothing for something great. They of course asked me what I was up to and were incredulous. I bade them farewell and pedaled another hour down the road to the state park campground. On the way I saw numerous folks who had parked their RVs on the lake shore and were driving around on dirt bikes and ATVs. I was happy not to share space with them since they are pretty loud.

At the campground I drove around a closed gate and found a spot away from the RVs with generators. Dark clouds rolled in and it rained pretty good off and on that night. I just hung out in my tent and listened to podcasts, snug. A lot of people bikepack with only a bivy sack for shelter but having a tent is nice in this situation. With my new sleeping bag liner, I was warm and slept well with rain hitting the tent.

Saturday April 30, Day 11, Roosevelt Lake to Payson

This was a pretty long and arduous day with some busy highway sections and a huge climb into Payson. The road out of Roosevelt Lake was quiet but after awhile it turned into one of the main highways out of Phoenix.

One highlight was stopping at a place called Joe's Corner. It's a biker bar in the middle of nowhere. I needed a break so I went in and got a burger. The burger was pretty bad, but appetite is the best seasoning. It was salty, at least. There were some fat bikers in there that were chortling at my getup, which I ignored. Have fun with COPD and heart failure, fellas.

The rest of the day was pretty brutal. It was cold in Payson I was hungry and tired, so I got a room. At the hotel I tried to update my Garmin, but no luck getting an admin passcode from the manager. Kinda wondering why I carry the thing and its accessories. Having better luck with Delorme Earthmate on my phone... it lets you pre-download extensive maps for free.