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| Frutas |
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| BBQ choices |
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| Guess? |
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| Tentaculos |
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| Some handsome lads |
Wednesday, May 8, 2013
Monday, May 6, 2013
Arrival in Mendoza
Yesterday my dad and I arrived in Mendoza, Argentina after flying through Dallas and Santiago. From Santiago we flew up, up, up, and then over the Andes down to Mendoza on the other side. The mountains are big and full of glaciers. Upon arrival in Mendoza we caught a cab to our professor Ana's house. She has an attached apartment which is very small (see below). We are going to study Spanish with her for two weeks and then spend another week sightseeing.
Our first day of classes was tough, but I think that is how it must be when you learn a new language. We are in class for 4 hours and then we have 3 hours of written homework. This morning an Argentine girl who was studying English introduced herself and kissed me on the cheek. That is the custom, apparently. I could get used to that.
Last night was Sunday, and everything was closed and the streets were empty and forlorn. This afternoon we walked to downtown Mendoza (about a mile and a half) and everything was much more active. It's fast-paced and crossing the street is dicey. We conducted a couple of transactions to test the waters and it went OK. People talk fast, of course. I think it will get easier.
One thing that is rather shocking is the money situation here. The government sets the official exchange rate at 5.2 pesos to 1 US dollar. However, it's actually worth far less than that. On the black market, the rate is currently about 10 pesos to the dollar. Last week it was 9:1, last month it was 8:1, and at the beginning of the year it was 7:1. The peso seems to be collapsing at an exponential rate. I wonder how any business can stay afloat. It seems like the government here is doing a pretty good job of screwing everybody over.
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| Flying into Santiago from Dallas |
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| Flying over the Andes from Santiago to Mendoza |
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| Street sweeping |
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| Our cuddly accomodation |
Sunday, September 16, 2012
Walden, CO - Kremmling, CO
This morning I met an English fellow named Richard at the mini-mart. After a chat, it turned out that we were both headed to Kremmling. With Google Maps, I had earlier researched a route that would have been shorter (58 instead of 78 miles) and less wind-prone. With hubris, I informed Richard that his route was poor and mine was better. Never mind that Google Maps has led me astray several times now. He was already committed to his route so we parted ways and said that we'd see each other in Kremmling.
Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately -- who knows what misfortune I avoided), I missed my turn and ended up on the same route as Richard and his current riding companion Brian. I didn't figure this out until 12 miles down the road. At that point, I couldn't turn back. The day just isn't long enough. Cursing myself, I pedaled onwards.
It turned out to be incredibly scenic with minimal traffic. The aspens are a brilliant gold now, and the road up the pass was smooth as it wound through the forest. Richard was obsessed with seeing a moose. The steady 25mph wind was mostly a crosswind so it wasn't so bothersome. Later we had to turn west on US 40, which was much busier and headed straight into the wind. That part wasn't as fun.
Tomorrow the weather is supposed to be cold and windy and perhaps rainy. It's 68 miles and includes Vail Pass at 10,662 feet. I doubt anything could bother me, as I will be happy to sleep in my own bed.
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Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately -- who knows what misfortune I avoided), I missed my turn and ended up on the same route as Richard and his current riding companion Brian. I didn't figure this out until 12 miles down the road. At that point, I couldn't turn back. The day just isn't long enough. Cursing myself, I pedaled onwards.
It turned out to be incredibly scenic with minimal traffic. The aspens are a brilliant gold now, and the road up the pass was smooth as it wound through the forest. Richard was obsessed with seeing a moose. The steady 25mph wind was mostly a crosswind so it wasn't so bothersome. Later we had to turn west on US 40, which was much busier and headed straight into the wind. That part wasn't as fun.
Tomorrow the weather is supposed to be cold and windy and perhaps rainy. It's 68 miles and includes Vail Pass at 10,662 feet. I doubt anything could bother me, as I will be happy to sleep in my own bed.
View Larger Map
Pretty sure the horse is responsible for this sign
Entering scenic Rand, Colorado
Must be an Okie from Muskogee
Brian and Richard, my riding companions today
Pedaling up Willow Creek Pass
...and coming down
Different steeds
Saturday, September 15, 2012
Saratoga, WY - Walden, CO
The best part of the day was the burger at the Walden bowling alley just now. Everything else was pretty joyless. I slept poorly and was exhausted even before getting on the bike. Even though I kept telling myself to be happy and thankful, I had no energy and my aching legs felt like they were wrapped with barbed wire. My skin is not faring well, with the relentless sun and wind and sunblock and heat. My feet are raw where the seams of my shoes rub, my thighs are raw where they rub the seat. My eyelids seem permanently windburnt and are always half-closed.
The hot, dry wind was stiff today. Sometimes it was a crosswind, other times a welcome tailwind in which I pedaled languidly. Crosswinds don't slow forward progress, but they blow me around and suck the breath out of my mouth.
Tomorrow is supposed to be about the same as today, although my 61-mile route to Kremmling runs due west into the headwind in a few areas. Hopefully I sleep better and feel strong.
View Larger Map
The hot, dry wind was stiff today. Sometimes it was a crosswind, other times a welcome tailwind in which I pedaled languidly. Crosswinds don't slow forward progress, but they blow me around and suck the breath out of my mouth.
Tomorrow is supposed to be about the same as today, although my 61-mile route to Kremmling runs due west into the headwind in a few areas. Hopefully I sleep better and feel strong.
View Larger Map
Not sure what to think about me
Hello there
Entering vast North Park
Friday, September 14, 2012
Rawlins, WY - Saratoga, WA
Spent most of the day today lost, turning an easy 45-miler into an all-day affair.
Woke up feeling hung over, perhaps from yesterday's ride but more likely from last night's overindulgence of fast food from the plentiful bounty of I-80 Exit 214. Went into Rawlins proper, which has a small downtown area. Was looking for a bike shop to get some air/tire insurance, but it was out of business.
From there I tried to get back across town a different way but was stymied, having to backtrack numerous times. It's a small town but it is bisected by the railroad and the interstate, with a big valley between the two. It's hard to imagine being lost in Rawlins but I pedaled around forever, backtracking numerous times over hills. Finally I got back to the eastern side of town where the obvious choice was I-80 east. However (!), I had cleverly found a Google Maps route that would take me the whole way without going on the interstate. I was feeling proud of myself because other bike journals say that a trip on I-80 is required.
I found a nice back road to the town of Sinclair, about five miles away. The road was basically a service road for the Union Pacific railroad. An unmarked pickup truck with lots of antennae passed me slowly, the driver giving me a long look. I'm pretty sure it was the Pinkertons from the railroad. But he must have been satisfied, because he U-turned and drove the other way.
Sinclair is home to the big oil refinery you pass by if driving along I-80. The refinery is even more enormous from up close. The myriad of pipes and tanks and stacks belching steam was otherworldly. I took lots of pictures and moved down the road to a different vantage point. A policeman pulled up and rolled down the window. He said hello and was very friendly, just shooting the breeze. But I'm coming to realize that they keep a watchful eye on the place.
The Google Maps route, if I remembered correctly, took me along the railroad tracks on the other side of the valley from I-80. I found the road, which was gravel and dirt and headed out in a straight line toward some faraway mountains. Eventually it was supposed to intersect with another road but it looked pretty forlorn. Anything was better than I-80, I thought. I turned onto the road, which was sand and gravel and deep ruts. I pedaled ahead, a pit in my stomach as I was obviously going far away from civilization. About 40 minutes later, the road was closed by barbed wire at some old rusty propane tanks. Beyond that it looked like Jeep territory. With a mixed sense of despair and relief, I turned around and headed back to the refinery. Luckily neither the police nor the Pinkertons saw me. Three hours and I'd made it five miles from Rawlins.
I turned onto the dreaded I-80. It was actually not as bad as I thought. The shoulder was huge and smooth, and people don't drive any faster than they do on any other Wyoming highway. After about 15 miles I got to the next exit, stopped at a weatherbeaten gas station for insurance water, and headed down another 20 miles to Saratoga.
There are free public hot springs in Saratoga that are very nice. The town has built nice pools, but I saw some young folks hanging out in the river which is also hot. I joined them and learned that they were from Fort Collins, and were on a hot springs tour. The sun was setting and a duck quacked at us from the other side of the river as we soaked in sulphur water. It was great. Tomorrow morning I will have to do another soak before heading to Walden.
View Larger Map
Woke up feeling hung over, perhaps from yesterday's ride but more likely from last night's overindulgence of fast food from the plentiful bounty of I-80 Exit 214. Went into Rawlins proper, which has a small downtown area. Was looking for a bike shop to get some air/tire insurance, but it was out of business.
From there I tried to get back across town a different way but was stymied, having to backtrack numerous times. It's a small town but it is bisected by the railroad and the interstate, with a big valley between the two. It's hard to imagine being lost in Rawlins but I pedaled around forever, backtracking numerous times over hills. Finally I got back to the eastern side of town where the obvious choice was I-80 east. However (!), I had cleverly found a Google Maps route that would take me the whole way without going on the interstate. I was feeling proud of myself because other bike journals say that a trip on I-80 is required.
I found a nice back road to the town of Sinclair, about five miles away. The road was basically a service road for the Union Pacific railroad. An unmarked pickup truck with lots of antennae passed me slowly, the driver giving me a long look. I'm pretty sure it was the Pinkertons from the railroad. But he must have been satisfied, because he U-turned and drove the other way.
Sinclair is home to the big oil refinery you pass by if driving along I-80. The refinery is even more enormous from up close. The myriad of pipes and tanks and stacks belching steam was otherworldly. I took lots of pictures and moved down the road to a different vantage point. A policeman pulled up and rolled down the window. He said hello and was very friendly, just shooting the breeze. But I'm coming to realize that they keep a watchful eye on the place.
The Google Maps route, if I remembered correctly, took me along the railroad tracks on the other side of the valley from I-80. I found the road, which was gravel and dirt and headed out in a straight line toward some faraway mountains. Eventually it was supposed to intersect with another road but it looked pretty forlorn. Anything was better than I-80, I thought. I turned onto the road, which was sand and gravel and deep ruts. I pedaled ahead, a pit in my stomach as I was obviously going far away from civilization. About 40 minutes later, the road was closed by barbed wire at some old rusty propane tanks. Beyond that it looked like Jeep territory. With a mixed sense of despair and relief, I turned around and headed back to the refinery. Luckily neither the police nor the Pinkertons saw me. Three hours and I'd made it five miles from Rawlins.
I turned onto the dreaded I-80. It was actually not as bad as I thought. The shoulder was huge and smooth, and people don't drive any faster than they do on any other Wyoming highway. After about 15 miles I got to the next exit, stopped at a weatherbeaten gas station for insurance water, and headed down another 20 miles to Saratoga.
There are free public hot springs in Saratoga that are very nice. The town has built nice pools, but I saw some young folks hanging out in the river which is also hot. I joined them and learned that they were from Fort Collins, and were on a hot springs tour. The sun was setting and a duck quacked at us from the other side of the river as we soaked in sulphur water. It was great. Tomorrow morning I will have to do another soak before heading to Walden.
View Larger Map
Waiting for the train
Wild, I tell you.
Main road past the refinery
Anybody know a plumber?
Miles of pipes
Atlas Shrugged
End of the line. An hour and a half down the tubes.
Gave in and took the big road. It wasn't so bad, although I wouldn't recommend it either.
Camp at Saratoga Lake. Already looking forward to a shower and a soak at the hot springs tomorrow. Supposed to be chilly but I will be cosy!
Thursday, September 13, 2012
Lander, WY - Rawlins, WY
125 miles, 3750 feet of climbing. Packed 10 liters of water (2.6 gallons), which weighed 22 lbs. Total bike weight approximately 115 pounds. Changed out a tire which was fried. About 12 hours of riding/stops. Crossed continental divide twice. I will fill in the details later.
Got up well before dawn intending to complete this ride. My hazy calculations indicated that just might be able to cover the distance before sunset. I did pretty well, although I was slowed down by the disintegration of my rear tire. Conditions were just about perfect, low 70s and blue sky. Most importantly, there was little wind. That's rare for Wyoming, and I was glad to take advantage of it.
It's really much prettier than the white empty space on the map. There are mountains and buttes and weird rock spines. I saw plenty of little pronghorn, but only from a distance since they spotted me also. On the second half of the ride I got pretty tired, but then picked up my second wind for awhile. There was a decent climb into Rawlins at the end of the ride, which was tough.
I listened to more of the Arab-Israeli war book and also the FM country station I could pick up on my phone. Mainstream country music is terrible, terrible stuff. It's like that cheese that sprays out of a can.
On the road into Rawlins I ran into Brock and Kathleen (www.ourfavoriteadventure.com) going the other direction. They had come from Virginia. It was a terrible spot to chat, as the road had narrowed and there was lots of traffic. So we bid each other adieu before long.
Today I am going to go into Rawlins and maybe see the old prison, Then I am going to head down to Saratoga where there are supposed to be hot springs. Sounds pretty good.
View Larger Map
Got up well before dawn intending to complete this ride. My hazy calculations indicated that just might be able to cover the distance before sunset. I did pretty well, although I was slowed down by the disintegration of my rear tire. Conditions were just about perfect, low 70s and blue sky. Most importantly, there was little wind. That's rare for Wyoming, and I was glad to take advantage of it.
It's really much prettier than the white empty space on the map. There are mountains and buttes and weird rock spines. I saw plenty of little pronghorn, but only from a distance since they spotted me also. On the second half of the ride I got pretty tired, but then picked up my second wind for awhile. There was a decent climb into Rawlins at the end of the ride, which was tough.
I listened to more of the Arab-Israeli war book and also the FM country station I could pick up on my phone. Mainstream country music is terrible, terrible stuff. It's like that cheese that sprays out of a can.
On the road into Rawlins I ran into Brock and Kathleen (www.ourfavoriteadventure.com) going the other direction. They had come from Virginia. It was a terrible spot to chat, as the road had narrowed and there was lots of traffic. So we bid each other adieu before long.
Today I am going to go into Rawlins and maybe see the old prison, Then I am going to head down to Saratoga where there are supposed to be hot springs. Sounds pretty good.
Hard to tell, but this was the top of a big climb.
Huge open spaces
Downtown Jeffrey City, where the hills have eyes.
Could have stayed here. This is their brochure: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51sMhQejwNL._SX500_.jpg
For awhile, the smoke burnt my eyes terribly. I could only look out of one eye or the other.
Continental Divide and Wyoming's ubiquitous snow fences
There's uranium in them thar hills!
The Schwalbe Kojak finally surrendered. Switched to the Marathon Plus, which makes a whirring sound like a tractor-trailer.
Ran into Brock and Kathleen on this stretch of road with a deplorable shoulder.
Video: coming into Rawlins at sunset
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Wednesday, September 12, 2012
Dubois, WY - Lander, WY
Busted out 75 miles today. Rolled into town with a decent amount of time left before sunset, which bodes well for tomorrow's epic ride to Rawlins. There were some hills today but nothing huge. Winds started off calm but developed into a breeze which I was riding straight into. It was manageable but certainly cut into my cruising speed. As the day went on it got stronger, then shifted to a crosswind. By the end of the ride it had turned into a welcome tailwind.
My incredible streak of zero flat tires came to an end when I ran over something that left a nice slice in my tire. I patched it up, installing a tire boot over the cut. It's time-consuming to change flats on this bike but I welcomed the diversion. I noticed that the Kojak tires are starting to look pretty ragged. At some point I may need to switch to the Marathon Plus tractor tires in my bag.
Most of the ride today was through the Wind River Indian Reservation. I stopped at a little store in the middle of nowhere that sold gas and groceries. There, I loaded up on snacks and then went outside to make a sandwich. There was an elderly lady sitting on a bench who invited me to sit with her. I did, and we talked for awhile. Her name was Barbara and she used to work for the Shoshone tribe, getting grants for them from the government. Deep lines crossed her face and she couldn't hear so well. She was very sweet. Just then, looking at her, I had the strangest feeling. She looked uncannily like a girl I used to date, although 40 years older. It didn't seem appropriate to tell her this observation, but it was a reminder of how quickly time passes by in life.
Rolled into Lander and got a room so I can sleep well in preparation for tomorrow. I was just about to jump into the shower when I realized I needed another sandwich. I ate a sandwich over the bathroom sink while the shower was warming up. Still starving after cleaning up, I went over to Safeway and loaded up with bread and meat and cookies and bananas and extra water bottles. I was honestly salivating as I walked around the store. After paying for my things, I went to a Thai joint across the street and got a mound of pad thai noodles in a carry-out box. Came back to the room and decimated the food; it didn't stand a chance. I am satisfied for now, but I wouldn't be surprised if I got up in the middle of the night and ate about ten cookies. So hungry all of the time.
Tomorrow I am going to make it to Rawlins. It's 125 miles, longer than I've ever ridden a bicycle. There's not much supplies along the way (zero, in fact), so I am going to pack eight liters of water and the food I bought at Safeway. It will be quite a challenge, but I think I can handle it. I set my alarm for 4:30am and I will be rolling at first light. There will be no stopping.
Unfortunately, my Sirius radio has quit working. I have an audiobook on my phone about the 1967 Arab-Israeli war, which occupied me for about five hours today. Looking on the Vail library website now for a couple more options.
View Larger Map
My incredible streak of zero flat tires came to an end when I ran over something that left a nice slice in my tire. I patched it up, installing a tire boot over the cut. It's time-consuming to change flats on this bike but I welcomed the diversion. I noticed that the Kojak tires are starting to look pretty ragged. At some point I may need to switch to the Marathon Plus tractor tires in my bag.
Most of the ride today was through the Wind River Indian Reservation. I stopped at a little store in the middle of nowhere that sold gas and groceries. There, I loaded up on snacks and then went outside to make a sandwich. There was an elderly lady sitting on a bench who invited me to sit with her. I did, and we talked for awhile. Her name was Barbara and she used to work for the Shoshone tribe, getting grants for them from the government. Deep lines crossed her face and she couldn't hear so well. She was very sweet. Just then, looking at her, I had the strangest feeling. She looked uncannily like a girl I used to date, although 40 years older. It didn't seem appropriate to tell her this observation, but it was a reminder of how quickly time passes by in life.
Rolled into Lander and got a room so I can sleep well in preparation for tomorrow. I was just about to jump into the shower when I realized I needed another sandwich. I ate a sandwich over the bathroom sink while the shower was warming up. Still starving after cleaning up, I went over to Safeway and loaded up with bread and meat and cookies and bananas and extra water bottles. I was honestly salivating as I walked around the store. After paying for my things, I went to a Thai joint across the street and got a mound of pad thai noodles in a carry-out box. Came back to the room and decimated the food; it didn't stand a chance. I am satisfied for now, but I wouldn't be surprised if I got up in the middle of the night and ate about ten cookies. So hungry all of the time.
Tomorrow I am going to make it to Rawlins. It's 125 miles, longer than I've ever ridden a bicycle. There's not much supplies along the way (zero, in fact), so I am going to pack eight liters of water and the food I bought at Safeway. It will be quite a challenge, but I think I can handle it. I set my alarm for 4:30am and I will be rolling at first light. There will be no stopping.
Unfortunately, my Sirius radio has quit working. I have an audiobook on my phone about the 1967 Arab-Israeli war, which occupied me for about five hours today. Looking on the Vail library website now for a couple more options.
View Larger Map
Without going into detail, I used about a quarter of this on the ride today.
Outside Dubois
Into the empty
Fixing a flat. Several cars slowed down to stare at me while I was doing this.
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